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16 thoughts on “Contact

  1. Hey man love your work! I’m building a few vanities up here in the NW for my home. Do you sell and ship those steel drawer/door pulls like the ones in your blog?

  2. Hi Ben,

    Please email me. I am very interested in your work. I would like to discuss pricing on a double sink bathroom vanity. Thanks so much!


  3. Good morning Ben! Would love to order one of those bed bases for a hanging rope bed. Worried about a “true” hanging bed for my 10 year old, you know how boys can be:) Thanks so much!

  4. My wife and I are undertaking a reclaimed brick patio based upon your mosaic concept…neither of us are contractors by trade (far from it) and we fear that since your explanations make it sound easy, that there are critical details–that are perhaps redundant or condescending for most people who lay brick, or diy-ers–that are left out. Would you be so kind as to write out an idiot’s guide to the mosaic paver patio?

    a few questions:
    1. the more reading i do, the more i hear that wide gap polymeric sand is preferable over Portland cement…due to our living in the northeast with freeze/thaw cycles doing a number on most conventional cement over time. Does wide gap polymeric sand (up to 4″) work better than portland cement with your concept as well and you were trying to save $ by using portland cement, or is cement superior?

    2. If using reclaimed brick that is not uniform in width, would you simply pound the thicker bricks into the sand with a rubber mallet until level?

    3. If broken bricks leave a gap on both sides of the paver, would you underfill the bottom gap with sand, or address the gap between the portion of broken brick and the sand differently?

    4. The contractors I have spoken to have all agreed that limestone dust is preferable to sand as a leveling top layer of base for a paver patio. is this true with your mosaic concept as well, or is there a reason sand is better?

    5. My plan to edge the pavers was to stand brick upright in a line of cement, back filled with cement, with a gravel trench & buried perforated 4″ corrugated pipe behind it for drainage. Do you see a problem with this approach, or would you think the flexible paver edging that you spike into the dirt to be a longer lasting edging?

    6. would i be able to edge the lower patio with a retaining wall and the house itself alone…or should i place an edging between the wall and the patio…the house and the patio?

    Thank you SO much for your time. I am amazed by your concept…in all the diy vastness there is nothing else like it that i have seen.

    • Hi David, It sounds like you have done more homework on this than I did. Our brick paths have served us well, but honestly after a couple of years we have some cracks here and there. We like the look of the old brick and cracking, but if you are looking for a more bulletproof sidewalk I would recommend pouring a normal 3.5″ thick sidewalk underneath (reinforced with steel). I did my driveway this way ( ) and then the front sidewalk ( ) and we don’t have a single crack on either one yet. However, we live in a very mild climate and rarely see freezing weather. If you opt for this concrete pad underneath, I would recommend using a rough broom to rough up the concrete before it gets hard. Then set the bricks in a bed of thinset. After the thinset dries fill in the gaps with the dry Sack Crete (or the wide gap polymeric sand you mentioned). In terms of edging, if you thinset the bricks to the slab you won’t need a border. As far as under filling goes, that would be done with the thinset. The varying thickness of bricks doesn’t bother me so long as it isn’t enough to trip over. You could build up the thinner bricks with more thinset. Part of the beauty here is that the bricks are not perfect. Don’t try too hard to make everything exact.

      I hope this helps! Send me a photo when you get it done. Good luck!

  5. Good afternoon
    We just purchased a solid slate pool table to use as a kitchen island top and I stumbled upon your project. Any advice before we proceed? I am extremely excited about reclaiming it but am really wondering on how to go about piecing it together with another top. Thanks for any advice you may have.

    • I use a diamond blade on my Mag77 Skillsaw to cut the slate. It’s not easy! I use a little bit of water (directly onto the cut area while cutting) to keep things cool. Take your time to make tight fits. Good luck!

  6. Good morning Ben!

    Love you work! And was curious what software you use for your sketches/renderings? I’m a furniture maker here in Ohio, and primarily use sketchup and good ole fashion long hand sketch (mostly for angle work because sketchup does not like angles).

    Thanks Darrel G

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